On the way to Ilisu, Azerbaijan. Part 2: Spiritual Stop at Diri Baba.

Leaving Sulutapa behind (Part 1) — the beast I fell in love with at last — we carry on with our long-distance journey filled with stops to either satisfy our stomachs with delicious, fresh, rustic Azerbaijani food or stretch our stiff muscles.

One of the stops, however — a slight detour from the main road — has taken on a different meaning for me.

For centuries, the ancient two-storey tomb-mosque Diri Baba, located in the Shamakhi-Maraza region of Azerbaijan and carved out of a cliff so that it seems to hang in mid-air, had been a place of pilgrimage for Azerbaijanis and others in search of the sacred. The saint Pir Muhammad also known as Diri Baba, is allegedly buried in this mausoleum. According to one legend, he died at prayer and remained exactly as he was for 300 years. Another legend refers to a man named Atam Ibn Emir who lived, died and was buried here as a follower of the Prophet Muhammad and who was also a Sufi. There is a theory that the tomb was built on the orders of Shirvanshah Sheikh Ibrahim I. This is because it was constructed in 1402 and is in the same architectural style as the Shirvanshah’s palace complex in Baku. Both are classified as examples of the Shirvan-Absheron architecture of the Middle Ages.

As in all medieval constructions, you would expect to enter via dark narrow paths and to climb up steep stairs that make you out of breath. You arrive in a hall topped by an impressive spherical dome adorned with carvings and inscriptions, a memorial to Sheikh Ibrahim I, ruler of Shirvan. Then you pass through a narrow passage in the northern wall to reach a grotto that adjoins the mausoleum, and you can wander around the other rooms glancing through stone-ornamented windows into the vastness of hills and sky.

No matter what legends tell us, no matter if you are religious, if you are a believer or not, as soon as you arrive at this place you will surely feel the traces and the vibe of prayer throughout. You will feel the place has a spiritual aura and is undoubtedly overflowing with mysticism. It sets you up for a meditative mood, for wistfulness, and for tranquillity in your mind and soul.

Once you have climbed to the top of the mausoleum to enjoy the view, you will be tempted to squat down and breathe deeply the air flowing in so softly from all around. Gazing over the ancient tombstones in the cemetery across the road, you will be invited to dive into a completely different dimension. Or it would be the perfect time and place to meditate, shrouded in the mystical past and the present moment.

To take away the most spiritually enriching experience, it is best to avoid coming here in big groups, but rather take a trip on your own or with those who are closest to you. You should be aware of your own personal safety, however, as this place is not for the faint-hearted: there are no balustrades or rails to support your climb up or down.

Experience this place as in ancient times.

They say the tomb floats out of the air, and so too does its spirituality.