On the way to Ilisu, Azerbaijan. Part 5: Little Russia ‘Ivanovka’
After a break at the Chabiant winery in Part 4, another detour worthy spot in the same proximity is the Russian village ‘Ivanovka’ in the middle of Azerbaijan, founded in 1834. Outliers of the Russian Orthodox Church, ethnic Russian Molokans and Dukhobors, were historically regarded as heretics for not recognising the cross and other icons, veneration of saints and considering the pork and alcohol consumption as sin. By decree of Tsar Nicholas and in the aftermath of the Russian-Persian war of 1826–1828, the people had to migrate to the Caucasus in the 19th century and till today remain the main settlers and residents of this historic hilltop village in Ismayilli. The village was named İvanovka, after the founder Ivan Perschin. Molokans embraced their new home in Azerbaijan with love and care. They could preserve their own culture and lifestyle, with no signs of discrimination, from their first steps until today. This preservation is clearly and vividly expressed in the village’s architectural planning, from the old traditional Russian-style wooden houses in vibrant colours, to the distinguished front-yards, gardens and undoubtedly wooden-carved window frames. A certain flowery decor and a front bench outdoors echo a traditional village in Russia. In fact, Ivanovka could easily be a great model for many Russian villages which I have personally seen in a neglected and run-down condition. Perhaps there are certain benefits of enclave mindsets in adherence to old rules and traditions which, in Molokans’ case, are their good saviours playing a role model to others.
Molokans (the word means ‘milk drinker/dairy eater) refer to themselves as a member of the Spiritual religion of Eastern Christianity, keep their unique spiritual and community traditions and are exceptionally good at fresh dairy produce, honey making, grain and wheat growing. Many would travel just to get a jar of smetana (Russian soured cream) or tvorog, honey or a long-serving heavy bread.
The community’s consolidated and hard-working nature, and their love for and skill in dairy produce serves them as a guarantee of outstanding achievement at a national level for the best performing soviet-style collective farm (‘kolkhoz’ in Russian). It remains the only operating kolkhoz today, a sort of living memory of the Soviet legacy, whilst supplying Baku and other regions of Azerbaijan with their high-quality produce. The kolkhoz is renamed after its founder Nikolay Nikitin.
The trace of the challenges posed by the post-Soviet transition and faced by Molokans can be felt throughout when wandering around the village. Not as populated as before (today there are about 3,000 people), with the global trend of youth heading to big cities or overseas, it lacks its former liveliness and community spirit. But what a peculiar joy it is to take pictures of old sites like a grocery store, barbers, post office, and hairdressers, which at the time we could not possibly consider wasting one of the 24 or 36 precious shots on old camera films.
Nonetheless, Molokans are an exemplary historic minority of Azerbaijan. Living in peace with all their neighbours, contributing to the country and preserving their own culture, they are also respected and celebrated by their other countrymen, along with the author of this writing.
